Thanks for all the birthday e-mails, guys! I was overwhelmed. I've stuck them all up on the wall of my hotel room -- I'll take a picture tomorrow.
The Arbil Tower Hotel may not be the most salbrious venue for a birthday bash but under the circumstances it was just the job. In Charge Oggy even organised cakes and a candle. Photographic evidence below. One question, though. Why did the waiters prop up the candle in its holder with goat's cheese?

Blowing out the Candle
Cheers!
Group Photo
Popping My Cork